Castel Sant’Angelo and Hadrian’s former tomb in Rome

The Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome is a unique monument; you can feel it immediately as soon as you step over the threshold of this ancient structure. As you ascend the old stone stairs of the Castel Sant’Angelo, time and space blend into one, revealing the mysteries of bygone centuries.

This massive edifice has been towering into the sky on the right bank of the Tiber River, just next to the Vatican and St. Peter’s Square, for almost two millennia. The purpose of Castel Sant’Angelo and its fate have been as intricate and fluctuating as the fortunes of the entire Roman Empire. Over the centuries, the castle served various functions, including being an enormous mausoleum, an impregnable fortress, and even a papal palace.

In the article below, I will tell you about this Roman monument, its history, and the people associated with it from ancient times to the present day. I will also explain why, in my opinion, this castle is a place that one must visit during a trip to Rome.

Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome and its history

The immense fortress partly carved into solid rock is now one of the major attractions in Rome, with many claiming it to be among the most important landmarks in all of Italy.

The history of Castel Sant’Angelo begins during the reign of the Roman Emperor Hadrian, who decided to erect his mausoleum in the prestigious part of Rome. However, the emperor did not live to see the completion of the project, as the construction of the tomb was finished after his death in 139 AD.

When designing the colossal structure, considerations were also made to alter the entire surroundings of the future mausoleum to facilitate communication between the essential districts of the Eternal City and the imperial tomb. As a result, a stone bridge named Pons Aelius was constructed over the Tiber River, which still serves tourists visiting the castle today.

The Pons Aelius, also known as the Bridge of the Holy Angel, over the Tiber is very picturesque and, along with Castel Sant’Angelo, forms a beautiful ensemble. The original shape of the bridge has been adorned with Baroque embellishments and numerous sculptures and statues of angels, holding various objects related to the Passion of Christ.

The further fate of the imperial mausoleum was rather tragic. In the year 401, the mausoleum was renamed by Flavius Honorius Augustus into a military fortress and integrated with the defensive walls of Aurelius. Simultaneously, the structure was transformed into a municipal prison.

After the sack of Rome by the Visigoths, the castle was looted, and the ashes of the imperial family members resting there were scattered around the castle. The only element that survived the bloody turmoil of war is the crown of the funerary urn, presumably containing the ashes of Hadrian (currently housed in St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican).

Another devastation of the Castel Sant’Angelo occurred during the siege of Rome by the Goths in 537. Defenders through decorations, statues, and other elements of the former mausoleum onto the attacking enemies.

Over time, many elements of Hadrian’s tomb were dismantled and found their way into emerging chapels and churches throughout Rome as inexpensive building materials. Italian art historian, architect, painter, and talented engineer Giorgio Vasari wrote about this.

… in order to build churches for the use of Christians, not only were the most revered temples of idols destroyed, but in order to ennoble and decorate St. Peter’s Basilica with more ornaments than it then possessed, they took stone columns from Hadrian’s tomb, now the castle of Sant’Angelo, as well as many other things we now see in the ruins.

Giorgio Vasari

At the end of the 6th century, Hadrian’s Mausoleum was renamed the Castel Sant’Angelo by Pope Gregory I. This gesture was intended to commemorate an event that occurred during a rampant plague in Rome. Many city residents claimed to have seen the figure of a massive angel who sheathed his sword. At that time, it was believed to herald the imminent end of the plague, which, according to the church authorities, was a divine punishment for the sins of the city’s inhabitants. In 608, another pope, Boniface IV, ordered the construction of a chapel and a statue of Saint Michael with a drawn sword on top of the castle.

Further transformations occurred in the 10th century, when the Castel Sant’Angelo passed into the private hands of one of the aristocratic families ruling Rome at that time. The castle was fortified and well-armed, serving popes as a fortress and occasionally as a prison for particularly disliked adversaries of the Vatican over the centuries.

In the 13th century, Pope Nicholas III ordered the connection of the Castel Sant’Angelo to the Vatican. A subterranean corridor, known as the Passetto di Borgo, was constructed at that time, intended to serve popes as an escape route in case of an attack on the head of the church. The corridor still exists today and, according to urban legend, continues to fulfil its original function.

In the 18th century, the castle was renovated again, and a sculpture of an angel was placed on its top, where it stands to this day. The statue of Saint Michael, which previously adorned the castle’s peak, can be seen in the open courtyard inside the castle.

By the end of the 19th century, the significance of the Castel Sant’Angelo had diminished to the extent that the beautiful ancient rooms were renamed military barracks, and priceless frescoes were covered with ordinary paint. Fortunately, with the arrival of the 20th century, the historical value of the fortress was remembered, and large-scale restoration work was initiated, restoring some of its former glory.

Currently, the castle houses the Vatican Museum of Military History, as well as various temporary and commemorative exhibitions. When we visited the Castel Sant’Angelo, the building’s rooms were filled with costumes worn by famous Italian actresses during the filming of film scenes.

Visiting the Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome

The interior of the castle is overwhelming, but it makes a tremendous impression with its power and mass. No wonder that throughout the centuries, the structure was utilized as a fortress. The rooms of the papal flat, ordered to be created by Pope Paul III, left the biggest impression on us. These are spacious rooms adorned with frescoes and stuccoes, complemented by original fireplaces.

In these fortified chambers, Pope Clement VII survived the invasion of the forces of Emperor Charles V of France. This event was later called the Sack of Rome (Sacco di Roma). French soldiers plundered the city for many days, and violence and murders were commonplace. There was no mercy even for the clergy. Nuns were violated on the streets of the city, and orgies involving women from the most illustrious Roman families were held in the monasteries. Throughout this nightmare, the pope sat in the Castel Sant’Angelo and observed from above the tragedy that befell the city.

A stroll through the Castel Sant’Angelo is effortless, as a precise tour route is designated, and you just need to follow it. According to the guidebook, the tour takes about an hour and a half, but for us, it took almost three.

Keep in mind that in the castle, you’ll encounter a multitude of stairs, ramps, and elevations. If you have mobility issues, consider this, as there is not a single elevator in the monument.

The most interesting points in the Castel Sant’Angelo, in our opinion, are:

• The walls and bastions are filled with weapons and armour dating back to the medieval period. In one of the bastions, you can catch a glimpse of the secret (although not very secret if you can catch a glimpse of it) papal corridor leading to the Vatican.
• The castle courtyard, where you’ll see an original marble sculpture of an angel created by Raffaello de Monte, an Italian sculptor and architect. It used to stand at the top of the castle before the current sculpture took its place.
• The observation terrace, where tables are set up for you to enjoy a cup of coffee from a small café. The view from this spot is gorgeous, especially overlooking the Vatican or the bridge spanning over the Tiber. However, keep in mind that when the castle is crowded with tourists, it might be easier to meet the Pope than find an available table.

• The Sala Paolina, where the pope used to meet his invited guests. The grandeur of the hall corresponded to the status of the people who frequented it. On the walls, you can observe elements and scenes related to Alexander the Great.
• The terrace at the top of the castle is a place that particularly appealed to us. It offers a panoramic view of the entire Rome and the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican.
• The private flats of Pope Paul III are lavishly decorated rooms adorned with mythological motifs.
• The courtroom, called Sala della Giustizia, or the Hall of Justice, likely served as a place where judgments were pronounced on the condemned.
• At the end of the tour, you’ll encounter a march down a sloping ramp, originally leading to the burial chamber. It is a broad, stone-paved path that could accommodate horse-drawn carriages.

The places I mentioned above are, of course, just a suggestion because once you cross the gate, the entire castle is at your disposal, and you can create your own path for exploration.

Numerous rooms within the castle host temporary and thematic exhibitions. When we visited, on the top floor of the fortress near the terrace restaurant, there was an exhibition featuring a collection of beautiful dresses worn by Italian actresses in famous films.

Moreover, remember that a place like the Castel Sant’Angelo is a structure full of nooks and crannies, and dark corners that can be just as intriguing as the official points of interest. In the castle, you’ll find prison cells, kitchens, ancient baths, and even a mill.

Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome practical information

It is best to start visiting Castel Sant’Angelo in the morning. There are no crowds typical of this place, and there is still no heat pouring from the sky, which makes a walk around the castle much more pleasant.

Castel Sant’Angelo address in Rome: Piazza Adriana, 00193 Roma RM, Italy.

The castle can be visited from 9:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., with the last entry one hour before closing time. You can visit the castle with a dog, as long as it is polite and well-behaved. If your pet doesn’t like crowds, it’s better to leave it at the hotel.

Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome ticket prices

To enter the castle, you must purchase tickets in advance. It is best to do this via the website, which allows you to enter without often long queues.

• Price 21 euros per adult.
• Price 3.50 euros per person up to 17 years of age.
• Price: 47 euros for a ticket to Castel Sant’Angelo and the Vatican Museums.

Ticket prices may change very frequently or there are very favourable promotions, so it is worth looking in advance for tickets to the places you plan to visit.

At this link, you will find good-priced tickets for many Roman attractions

Legend from the Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome

Rome is inextricably linked with the church, and therefore also with its symbols. The most important symbol of Christianity, apart from the cross, of course, are angels, and there is no shortage of them in Rome. The following story is about one of them, the god warrior Archangel Michael.

Although it is only a legend, many believe that these events may have occurred. However, others believe that the angel on top of the Castel Sant’Angelo does not sheath his sword but, on the contrary, draws out his weapon to defend Rome against all its enemies.

Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome information and curiosities

• The Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome was built as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his family.
• The castle was opened in the year 139 AD.
• It is a cylindrical building located in Parco Adriano.
• In the subsequent years, the building served as a fortress, castle, and is currently operating as a museum.
• The Castel Sant’Angelo was once the tallest building in Rome.
• The height of the castle is 48 meters.
• Hadrian did not live to see the completion of his mausoleum.
• The emperor’s ashes were placed in the mausoleum a year after his death.
• The remains of Emperor Hadrian are likely located in the deepest part of the structure, known as the treasury.
• Along with the mausoleum, the Pons Aelius bridge was built, leading directly from Rome to the castle.
• During the Renaissance, the castle’s undergrounds housed the treasury of the Papal States.
• The Castel Sant’Angelo is connected to the Vatican by a tunnel, which served as an escape route for popes.
• Currently, in the Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome, there is a Vatican museum of medieval weaponry.

Polish version