Fort Nelson — Victorian Fortress in Portsmouth

Fort Nelson is located near Portsmouth in southern England.

For centuries, England stood firm against invasions and raids from nearly every direction. Some of these incursions were successful, and for long stretches of time, the English lived under foreign rule. This was the case when the once-unbeatable Roman legions marched across much of the known world, eventually reaching the shores of Britain. Later came the Anglo-Saxons, followed by the fierce Norman conquerors.

The Norman Invasion marked the last successful attempt to conquer the British Isles. Shaped by these experiences, the people of England began constructing mighty fortresses, strongholds, and seemingly impregnable castles.

Over time, Britain became the most heavily fortified land in Europe. Today, however, these grand defensive structures have lost their strategic value. Modern warfare relies on far deadlier weapons—ones that no stone wall, no matter how thick, can withstand. Today, I’ll take you to Fort Nelson and share its remarkable story.

The Napoleonic period and the construction of forts to defend the English coast

At the height of Napoleon’s ambitious quest for global dominance, preparations for a potential invasion were set into motion across the British Isles. The construction of new, modern defensive installations began with renewed urgency. Fortresses, bunkers, and artillery positions sprang up along nearly the entire southern coastline of England.

In an earlier post, we wrote about Brean Down Fort—one of many fortifications built along England’s western shores. These structures were intended to defend key ports along the Bristol Channel from a feared French naval invasion, should Napoleon’s forces attempt a landing.

In the end, these defences were never called into action. Over time, many of them lost their military significance. Some fell into ruin, while others were repurposed for entirely different uses. Yet, a few managed to withstand the erosion of time, remaining as they were always meant to be: stark reminders of human aggression, the thirst for dominance, or the desperate need to defend against it. The cannons no longer fire, and the high walls no longer face invading armies—but the bunkers remain, filled with relics of warfare. Transformed into museums, these spaces now tell stories of long-forgotten battles.

One such place is Fort Nelson, located in Hampshire, England. Fort Nelson is one of six similar forts constructed in the 1860s atop Portsdown Hill. Their mission? To protect the massive and strategically vital Royal Navy base in Portsmouth—just 8 kilometres to the south. The other forts, lined up across a stretch of over 10 kilometres, included Fort Fareham, Fort Wallington, Fort Purbrook (which was never completed), Fort Widley, and Fort Southwick.

Visiting the fortress and what we will see in Fort Nelson

Inside Fort Nelson, you’ll find over 700 pieces of artillery and military equipment on display. The collection spans nearly every corner of the globe and traces the evolution of weaponry from its earliest forms to the modern age. Among the exhibits are ancient Chinese bombards—more of a battlefield curiosity than a practical weapon—alongside various mortars, both antique and modern, early culverins, and smoothbore cannons loaded with black powder.

There’s something deeply satisfying about standing next to the old bronze guns—still without breech mechanisms—and placing your hands on the cold, solid metal. In the earliest days, aiming these weapons was more guesswork than science. Sights were rudimentary, if they existed at all, and firing one was often a game of luck rather than precision.

The oldest piece in the fort is over 600 years old. The collection includes many strikingly ornate culverins—thick-barreled and fearsome—that once sowed chaos across battlefields. Even earlier are beautifully decorated cartauns (heavy cannons), which, if you didn’t know better, might seem better suited for display in a palace gallery than for delivering destruction.

During one of our editorial meetings, Michał made a comment that changed how I see the entire collection. He said that old weapons—no matter how crude—had their own spirit and character. And it’s true. Many of the firearms and cannons at Fort Nelson bear intricate engravings crafted by the gunsmiths themselves. These markings weren’t just decorative—they often served as a signature of the maker and hinted at the intended use of the weapon.

Some culverins are etched with images of trees and leaves, suggesting they were meant for troops fighting in wooded terrain and open plains. Others are adorned with haunting images—burning figures, churches in flames, and angels—indicating they were likely used in the brutal suppression of towns and villages.

Despite the horror that weapons—especially these—can inspire, it’s important to remember one thing: they are just tools. Beautiful, heavy, and unimaginably dangerous—but tools nonetheless. They were loaded by human hands with powder and shot, aimed and fired in anger, fear, or duty. Today, they sit silent, offering us a glimpse into humanity’s long and complicated relationship with war.

Fort Nelson and collections of weapons more modern to us

Beyond the historical weaponry, Fort Nelson also houses a range of modern artillery, anti-tank, and anti-aircraft guns. While these don’t quite have the same charm as the old bronze cannons, they’re still a fascinating part of the collection. You’ll find a variety of decommissioned British Army weapons here—some from World War II, others brought back from regions where British forces were deployed.

One of the most intriguing exhibits is a section of the infamous Project Babylon supergun, developed in the 1980s under the regime of Saddam Hussein. The mastermind behind this colossal weapon was Gerald Bull, a brilliant Canadian engineer who initially worked with the U.S. on long-range artillery capable of launching projectiles thousands of kilometers. But after a string of setbacks and failed tests, U.S. support dried up. That’s when Saddam Hussein stepped in, offering Bull the resources to pursue his ambition: to build the largest gun the world had ever seen.

The gun was intended to weigh over 2,000 tons, stretch 150 meters in length, and fire shells a full meter in diameter. Progress was reportedly going well, with test dates already scheduled. But in 1990, just as the project neared its final stages, Gerald Bull was assassinated by unknown attackers. The project died with him. Today, you can see several original components of this monstrous weapon on display at Fort Nelson—transported from Iraq and preserved as a stark reminder of how far the arms race can go.

Aside from the guns, the fort itself is an attraction. Beneath its grassy ramparts lie deep underground tunnels and ammunition stores stretching for hundreds of meters. These subterranean corridors were designed to shelter soldiers during bombardments. Restored barracks, officers’ quarters, mess halls, and even a hospital have been brought back to life. In the medical wing, you’ll find a collection of life-saving tools from a different era—though judging by the look of some of them, many soldiers might have preferred to take their chances on the battlefield rather than face treatment inside.

At the end of our visit to Nelson’s Fort

I really liked Fort Nelson, although Magda was a bit less thrilled. Ultimately, however, she gave the old fortress a thumbs up, probably outweighed by the beautiful views of the port and the city of Portsmouth below. It’s also important that visiting the fort is completely free, and it offers a huge piece of military history. I recommend it to anyone who likes history, especially that of military operations.

Fort Nelson and practical information

• Opening hours: Every day from 10:00 to 17:00.
• Address: Portsdown Hill Road, Fareham, PO17 6AN United Kingdom
• Free entry, parking £3 all day.

Interesting facts about Fort Nelson

• Fort Nelson never saw combat
  Despite its massive walls, cannons, and strategic location, the fort was never attacked and never fired a single shot in battle.
• Its construction would cost over £11 million today
  Building Fort Nelson and its sister forts cost a fortune — equivalent to over £11 million in today’s money — yet they were never truly tested in war.
• It’s one of the “Palmerston’s Follies”
  Fort Nelson is part of a series of defensive forts commissioned by Prime Minister Lord Palmerston. They were mocked as “Palmerston’s Follies” because they were never used in actual combat.
• The site covers 19 acres
  The entire Fort Nelson complex spans 19 acres on Portsdown Hill, offering panoramic views over Portsmouth and the Solent.
• Home to the largest gun in the world
  The museum holds the largest artillery piece ever built — a replica of the German Schwerer Gustav, a 800mm WWII railway gun.
• The fort is cube-shaped
  Fort Nelson was built in a classic cube formation with sloped walls and a surrounding moat, following 19th-century military engineering principles.
• It contains parts of Saddam Hussein’s “Project Babylon”
  Visitors can see original components from the infamous supergun that Saddam Hussein tried to build in the 1980s with help from Canadian engineer Gerald Bull.
• The underground tunnels stretch for hundreds of meters
  Beneath the surface lies a vast network of tunnels once used as ammunition stores, barracks, and protective shelters.
• It’s part of the Royal Armouries
  Fort Nelson is one of three branches of the Royal Armouries Museum, along with the main site in Leeds and the Tower of London.
• Restored by volunteers over 15 years
  After years of neglect, the fort was brought back to life by volunteers and history enthusiasts, with full restoration completed in 1994.