Batería de Cenizas – A Forgotten Guardian of Spain’s Southern Coast
The Costa Cálida is one of Spain’s most popular travel destinations, brimming with attractions for every type of visitor. Those who love lively, bustling cities will find plenty to enjoy in Cartagena and Murcia. Hiking enthusiasts can set out along scenic trails stretching from Costa Blanca, past the shimmering Mar Menor lagoon, all the way to Almera in Andalusia.
Today, I’d like to take you on a journey to Batería de Cenizas, a former Spanish military base hidden within the Calblanque, Monte de las Cenizas and Peña del Águila Regional Park. This fascinating site lies near the ancient town of Portmán, founded by the Romans almost two thousand years ago. In the article below, I’ll share a glimpse into the history of this impressive fortification and give you a few practical tips on how to prepare for your visit—so you can enjoy the adventure safely and to the fullest.
Practical information that will help you organize an interesting trip
Bateria de Cenizas is located at the top of Las Cenizas Mountain and to get there, the best way is to take the RM12 towards La Manga and take exit number eight towards Portman.
The car park I recommend is located at the intersection of the RM-314 and RM-F42 roads. The trailhead is on the opposite side of the road. Of course, the trail to Bateria de Cenizas is just one of many beautiful hiking trails in the area.
You can visit Bateria de Cenizas from Monday to Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and on Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.
The highest viewpoint is at 305 meters, and the route from the car park to the end of the trail is just under 7 kilometres. Remember to bring water and snacks; there’s no place to buy supplies along the way, and the route is long and quite strenuous, especially on hot days.
The trail isn’t difficult, though it’s constantly uphill, so it might be challenging for those with mobility issues. Furthermore, the path is littered with rather large and sharp rocks, which easily penetrated my sneakers; I recommend thick-soled shoes.
The route from the car park to the base camp can be completed in just over an hour, but I wouldn’t recommend rushing. You’ll see something interesting at almost every turn, especially where the trees thin out, and you can see the sea and the distant Mar Menor lagoon.
Bateria de Cenizas and the very pleasant trail that leads to it
Our destination, Batería de Cenizas, is not only a fascinating historical site but also a truly scenic place to explore. Yet, the trail leading up the hill is just as remarkable as the fort itself. The path winds through a typical Mediterranean pine forest, interwoven with various local flora. You’ll come across low shrubs, hardy bushes, and even wild palms. A unique highlight here is the fragrant mora juniper, a species found only on these surrounding hills.
Although the forest might appear dry and sparse at first glance, don’t be fooled—it’s teeming with life. Most animals hide away during the hottest hours of the day, slipping into a natural siesta until evening. But with a bit of luck, you may spot nimble lizards darting across the path or encounter some unusual insects. On my hike, I came across a massive beetle known as the Carabus rugosus. Despite its name suggesting a runner, this beetle is as slow as a snail—anything but a sprinter!
The path steadily climbs upwards, though never too steeply, making it manageable for anyone in reasonably good health and fitness. Along the way, you’ll be surrounded by the soothing scent of pine. That warm, resinous aroma is one of the many reasons why travellers fall in love with Spain. Be sure to glance left through the openings in the trees—you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of Portmán Bay, the shimmering Mar Menor lagoon, and La Manga, a long strip of land rising dramatically from the waters of the Mediterranean. It’s a breathtaking sight!
As you near the summit, you’ll begin to notice more and more remnants of the old military base. Eventually, you’ll arrive at the entrance gate to Batería de Cenizas. Interestingly, this gate was modelled after the Temple of the Warriors in Chichén Itzá, Mexico, built by the ancient Toltecs. Just like its inspiration, the gate here is adorned with reliefs depicting warriors, eagles, and jaguars. While the Temple of the Warriors stood as a tribute to the fearless Maya, the entrance to Batería de Cenizas serves as a lasting reminder of the courage of Spanish soldiers.
Battery de Cenizas and its history
Batería de Cenizas was a coastal artillery fortress built to support the Spanish Navy. Constructed between 1930 and 1934, it formed part of a defensive network designed to protect the strategic naval port of Cartagena. To the west lies another artillery site, Batería de La Chapa, and beyond Cartagena you’ll find the impressive Batería de Castillitos—a fortress so spectacular that it will deserve a story of its own in an upcoming article.
The battery was armed with two enormous cannons manufactured by the British company Vickers and Armstrongs, famous for producing the iconic water-cooled Vickers machine gun widely used during World War I. Each gun at Batera de Cenizas had a calibre of 381/45 millimetres and was capable of firing a nearly one-ton shell over a distance of more than 35 kilometres. The primary mission of the fortress was to defend the entrance to Cartagena Bay. Working in tandem with its twin stronghold, Batería de Castillitos on Cape Tiñoso, the two created a deadly crossfire zone that covered the entire bay and offered crucial support to the Spanish coastal fleet.
Despite their sheer power, the guns quickly became outdated due to rapid advances in artillery technology during World War II and the Cold War. Officially, the base remained in service until 1994, after which it was abandoned and left to decay. In 2014, however, the fortress was added to Spain’s Red List of Endangered Heritage, a step toward recognizing its historical significance and preserving what remains of this once mighty coastal defence.
Visiting the old military base
If you’re a fan of military history, you’ll have a fantastic time at Batería de Cenizas. And if cannons and fortresses aren’t really your thing, the sweeping views from the mountaintop will more than make up for it. In short—there’s something here for everyone. Just keep in mind that if you’re bringing children, the site is full of hidden dangers: crumbling walls, rusty metal, deep cracks, and forgotten scraps of machinery. It’s an incredible place to explore, but one where accidents can happen quickly, and medical help is far away—so keep a close eye on the little ones.
The best place to begin your visit is at the enormous guns perched on the summit of Las Cenizas. The cannons rest on a massive concrete platform, while the mechanisms that once operated them—as well as the underground powder and ammunition magazines—are buried deep beneath your feet. The barrels still point toward the open sea, and trust me, you wouldn’t want to be aboard a ship caught in their line of fire.
The space between the two guns is wide and open, offering jaw-dropping views of the rugged Mediterranean coastline. Many visitors stop here, taking a seat to soak in the panorama of Cartagena Bay. But for the more adventurous, the trail continues on toward the old barracks. Abandoned since 1994, the buildings are crumbling into ruins. Many of the rooms are still open and can be explored—but be cautious. Before venturing into the dark corridors and storerooms, make sure you’re wearing sturdy shoes with thick soles; it’s easy to step on sharp glass, nails, or rusted steel bars. A torch is also essential, as many of the underground chambers are shrouded in pitch-black darkness.
Exploring the fortress and its surroundings shouldn’t take more than two hours. Along the way, you’ll find plenty of perfect spots for a picnic or a quick rest. We, as always, brought a thermos of coffee—and I can honestly say it never tasted better than on that hilltop with the sea stretching endlessly before us.
Even if you’re not interested in poking around dusty ruins, you’ll still be spoiled with countless breathtaking viewpoints. I’m sure you’ll leave Batería de Cenizas with unforgettable memories and a collection of stunning photos. And if you’d like, feel free to share them with us—we’d be delighted to feature your adventure on our social media pages.
Bateria de Cenizas information and interesting facts
- The Cenizas Battery is also known as C-9.
- The coastal battery near Cartagena was built between 1930 and 1934.
- The Cenizas Battery’s main weapon is two massive guns designed by Vickers in 1923.
- The caliber of both guns is an impressive 381/45 millimetres.
- The guns are 18 meters long and weigh over 88 tons.
- The Cenizas Battery’s guns could fire shells weighing one ton at a range of 35 kilometres.
- Today, there are eighteen coastal batteries on the southern coast of Spain, most of which are equipped with modern weapons or targeting and electronic warfare systems.
- The Cenizas Battery is located on Monte de las Cenizas, in the Rincón de San Ginés district, in the municipality of Cartagena, in the Murcia Region.
- The battery lies approximately 305 meters above sea level.
- The guns could fire projectiles up to 35 kilometres away.
- The Cenizas Battery was declared a Cultural Property on August 7, 1997.
- Officially, the battery remained in use until 1994, when it was decommissioned as part of the so-called “Plan NORTE,” which aimed to reorganize military resources.
- After its deactivation, the battery was abandoned, the guns were immobilized, and the structure of the entire structure was left to deteriorate. Despite this, the site attracts tourists, history buffs, and hikers.
- The main entrance portal is inspired by Mesoamerican architecture, particularly Mayan-Toltec temples.
- From the summit of Monte de las Cenizas, impressive views unfold – the sea, the Calblanque coast, Portman Bay, and the beautiful Mar Menor.
- You will find a lot of interesting information about the military monuments of the southern coast of Spain at the Naval Museum in Cartagena.
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